I got a lift to Wagah from Lahore, walked across the border, then taxi from border in to Amristar. There is a set price written on a chalk-board for these taxis, but somehow I got it cheaper. Well, cheaper when I eventually found someone in Amritsar who would accept Pakistani currency…best to change it on the Pakistani side if you travel this way.
At Amritsar station I queued in the wrong line (only for unreserved tickets) for too long, but long enough to see lots of pusher-ins get booted out of the line (hoorah!). With some help I found the right counter and got a ticket. It took a while, but if that was as bad as it got, it seemed less painful than my brother’s engagement with the train system a few years ago (it took him and his friend two days, lots of middle-men and some tears to get a ticket!).
A few hours, the stunning Sikh Golden Temple (amazing!) and an expensive cycle-rickshaw later, I was back at the train station. I initially got on the wrong cabin, enjoying the conversation with some funny locals, but jumped off and ran to my sleeper bed in the next cabin (no connecting door) at the first stop. The rest of the trip was spent asleep with possessions (as always) locked and bundled around my body. We arrived in Haridwar the next morning late, after going up-and-back to a few stations?! In the end, a similar experience to the other sleeper-class overnighters. Right down to the practiced-drone of ‘chaaAAAIIII’.